Ice Climbing
I work casual at MEC. Besides the awesome employee discounts, this has several side benefits, such as working with great people who have tons of outdoors experience, but also the opportunity to go on deeply discounted (often free) field courses! I was lucky enough to be selected for an Intro to Ice Climbing course with local legend Rob Owens.
Four of us met Rob at a coffee house in Canmore, and then drove about 45 minutes to Haffner Creek in Kootenay National Park, just over the BC border toward Radium. This is a wonderful theatre for Ice Climbing – there is lots of ice of various levels to choose from, and the canyon opens toward the south, providing warming sunshine for most of the day.
Haffner Creek looking North.
Many people think that ice climbing is dangerous. I think they say this because they have never climbed before and have only heard stories of the handful of mishaps that have occured over the years …mostly due to avalanche or carelessnes, or both. Rob told us that the rule of Ice Climbing is that “You Don’t Fall”! He fell once and broke his ankle. This is the reason you don’t fall – the crampons and tools are sharp and will jamb into the ice (or into you), and the result is predictable.
I have to admit that hearing this was a little intimidating, but then I realized that he wasn’t really talking about the ice climbing that we were doing this day …at least when it comes to danger. The only risk was for the lead climber …on Rob Owens, the guy who had to climb up to the top and install the belay anchor on a sturdy tree. He placed his own protection on the way up, but he could still hurt himself if he fell the 2-3 meters between emplaced ice screws.
But, after our expert had installed the anchor, all of our climbing was top-roped …that is a rope, attached to our personal climbing harness, ran up to the anchor at the top of the ice pitch, and then back down to an experienced belayer, who kept it tight the entire time. If we fell, it would only be a couple of inches and the risk of injury (except maybe a knee bang or face scratch) was negligible.
I really enjoyed my first ice climbing experience, despite being the only one in the group not to make it to the top of the ice wall. It is easier than rock climbing I think, because those toe and hand picks really hold well, …most of the time. I wish, though, that I had been in better shape. Especially my forearms. With poor technique and weak arms, it doesn’t take long before your muscles are really burning. I will try ice climbing again …this time with a bit more preparation on the pull-up bar beforehand 
Bill part way up a frozen waterfall.
Wow… ice climbing is intimidating looking, but that looks like a fantastic experience. It also makes for some wicked photos!
It’s no more scary than a climbing wall. You go as high as your muscles can take you, and then tell the belayer that you are ready to come down. Then you just lean back in your harness and he lowers you.
The climbing part seemed to be all about technique. Finding good ice to swing your ice axe into, then positioning your feet either side and directly below that to form a stable triangle. Then repeat with your other hand, while swinging higher.
You should try it Ian!
If you want to see a great Documentary-movie on ice and mountain climbing go and pick up the movie “Touching the Void”. Touching the Void is a book/movie by Joe Simpson recounting the true story of Simpson’s and Simon Yates’ disastrous and near-fatal climb of Siula Grande in the Peruvian Andes in 1985.
I stumbled across this movie on CBC and PVR’d it. Enjoyed it so much I watched is a 2nd time the next day.
Yeah I’m pretty sure I saw part of that …when he was crawling back on 2 broken legs, after being left for dead. Reality is more incredible than fiction.
The “crawling back on broken legs” bit is certainly not encouraging me to go try ice climbing tomorrow, but I think I will look into local climbing walls and that film nonetheless!